The future of food isn’t upwards, it’s backwards

A few years ago, I was doing some strategy work with an agritech company that specialises in designing, developing and supplying vertical farming technology. One sunny day, I was invited to visit their research and development centre to see first-hand the technology that’s set to “revolutionise” the way we think about and grow some crops.

Situated just outside the city of Dundee, surrounded by luscious farmland, stands an inconspicuous grey building with no windows. Inside the building are 4 vertical faming towers. The towers are made up of individual trays, stacked one on top of the other. Each tray has it’s own water supply and LED lighting to simulate sunlight that can be tailored to the needs of whatever crop is being cultivated. Everything is meticulously controlled and optimised - sealed off from the outside world to stop moths and bugs and aphids from disrupting system.

In fact, the whole system is designed to keep nature out.

Is that really the future of food? To keep nature at bay?

As a caveat, I’m not suggesting that there isn’t room for innovative approaches to food production - of course there is. But we are already so disconnected from nature, from where our food comes from. That’s what needs to change.

I have a radical notion: to think smaller, to think backwards.

Let’s work alongside nature. Let’s do what was considered normal before we all became enthralled by convenience. Let’s grow our own fruit and vegetables, and trade them with our neighbours. Let’s shop locally.

Food shouldn’t be grown in labs by people in white overalls who are frightened to let nature do its thing. It should be grown by you and me and Carol down the road. Fruit and vegetables should be planted by people wearing clothes they don’t mind getting ruined, and harvested with mud-caked hands.

The future of food isn’t upwards, it’s backwards.